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Generally when a decal breaks apart it is a sign of age, we get grey and brittle with age, but decals just get brittle.

If a decal is suspect, the best thing to do is to clear coat it. I don't use floor wax, I use Testors #1261 or Model Masters #1961 to clear coat decals.

Of course when you clear coat them they become thicker and do not fit body contours as well. I use Walters (Railraod people) Decal solvent and Champs. They work great. I quit using Microsol, to weak.

I noticed in the nascar race last weekend that when those cars rolled and hit the wall they messed the decals up also.

To protect your decals - more coats of clear equals more protection.

Was it Pattoes or you? It does not sound like you did anything wrong, you may have received decals that were printed on very old paper and they were dried out.

The Nascar decals you brought from Heller were not printed on an Alps. The Alps died ($600 investment) The Nascar decals are now printed in Pa. for me and he uses a $6500.00 Kodak printer. Much better quality. Better alignment and more opaque.

9car fan made the comment that he wished the decals companies out there would do 1/32nd scale. The decal companies are gone. What we have today is a couple of guys set up with 1 printer and they change their name every 6 months to avoid lawsuits. Slixx was the best and they did do some 1/32nd. Slixx quit doing Nascar decals about 3 years ago. Long story about why the decal companies are gone and it has to do with Theresa Earnhardt, but that is a story for another time.

Hope you have better luck next try.
Jim