I decided the origonal post was getting to huge. So lets pick up here with:
HOW TO MASK AND DECAL
Another fairly easy masking job.
Again use premium tape, don't try to save a couple of cents by using cheap tape.
I used Tamiya masking tape and then filled in the big areas with cheap tape. I use a burnisher to press down all the edges of the tape.
Painting the spoiler a different color is not that difficult. I taped over the spoiler, used my burnisher to press down the edges and then I used a sharp exacto knife to cut the tape along the body lines for the spoiler.
In this pic you get a good pic of the Tamiya tape. I deceided to paint the grill. Apply the tape and use your burnisher to press the edges down and then use your exacto to cut the grill out, now just carefully follow the body lines on the grill with your sharp knife.
Body has been taped and black has been applied.
Notice the posts that are holding the body on my Tamiya paint stand. They were 1/16th" thick wire just 10 months ago. The paint build-up makes them over 1/4" that is how much I use this paint stand.
Car has dried and I have applied clear coat and allowed it to dry again.
Time to apply the decals.
This is a more difficult task today (thanks to theresa E.) then it was in the past. We used to have Nascar decals available from SLIXX that were great quality and they were not continous film. Today Slixx has quit making Nascar decals (ask Theresa E if she knows why) and what is available are decals that are not mass produced. Because they are not mass produced, they are printed 1 at a time on continous film decal paper. This is more labor intensive and cost more, which means you must pay more. 1/24th scale decals have risen from $8 each (since Dale;s death) to $15.00 +. My decals (Highline) are printed on a $6500 Kodak printer and the List price is $13.00
Applying continous film decals requires more care then decals like Slixx made for us. Why?
1) They are thinner.
a) That means they look better
b) That also means they tear easier
2) You now have to cut out each individual decal
But don't get discouraged, this is your hobby, you are not on the clock, so who cares if it takes you a little longer.
My wife had (had) a great little pair of curved scissors (they disappeared a long time ago) These curved scissors are great for cutting out decals.
I use the container lid the car came in for water to dip the decals in. Dip them in the water and take them out. Do not allow them to sit in the water until you are ready to use them. Remember these are "waterslide" decals and if they slide off the paper into the water, your life has just become more difficult.
I find that my paint stand doubles as a graeat car holder while I apply the decals.
(there is a rumor that if you dip your decals in Coors, it will soften them and they will go on easier) NOT TRUE, I know you may be tempted, but put the beer away (even if you are doing Jr's car) until you finish this part of the process. When you are finished, set it in front of you and pop the top on that can and relax.
Easy? Can you do it? Sure you can, just take your time.
Some decals need to go over some areas on the body that have complex curves. How do you get the decals to lay down and conform to complicated body lines / curves?
You need to use a decal solvent / Setting solution.
There are a number of choices out there to choose from.
The main difference in them is the "Strenght"
1) Microsol (blue)
2) Microsol (red)
3) Walters Solvaset
4) Champion
I listed these in order of strength.
Since I found Walters and Champ, I never use Microsol, they are both to weak for my taste.
I use Walters Solvaset and for big curves I use Champ.
DANGER - DANGER
If you use a strong Solvent, do not try to move the decal after you apply the solvent - softening agent. You will tear - ruin the decal.
Make sure the decal is in place - where you want it before you brush the solvent on.
NEXT is the final Clearcoat.
Sign in a gas station: Coke -- 49 cents each. or Two for a dollar.
HOW TO MASK AND DECAL
Another fairly easy masking job.
Again use premium tape, don't try to save a couple of cents by using cheap tape.
I used Tamiya masking tape and then filled in the big areas with cheap tape. I use a burnisher to press down all the edges of the tape.
Painting the spoiler a different color is not that difficult. I taped over the spoiler, used my burnisher to press down the edges and then I used a sharp exacto knife to cut the tape along the body lines for the spoiler.
In this pic you get a good pic of the Tamiya tape. I deceided to paint the grill. Apply the tape and use your burnisher to press the edges down and then use your exacto to cut the grill out, now just carefully follow the body lines on the grill with your sharp knife.
Body has been taped and black has been applied.
Notice the posts that are holding the body on my Tamiya paint stand. They were 1/16th" thick wire just 10 months ago. The paint build-up makes them over 1/4" that is how much I use this paint stand.
Car has dried and I have applied clear coat and allowed it to dry again.
Time to apply the decals.
This is a more difficult task today (thanks to theresa E.) then it was in the past. We used to have Nascar decals available from SLIXX that were great quality and they were not continous film. Today Slixx has quit making Nascar decals (ask Theresa E if she knows why) and what is available are decals that are not mass produced. Because they are not mass produced, they are printed 1 at a time on continous film decal paper. This is more labor intensive and cost more, which means you must pay more. 1/24th scale decals have risen from $8 each (since Dale;s death) to $15.00 +. My decals (Highline) are printed on a $6500 Kodak printer and the List price is $13.00
Applying continous film decals requires more care then decals like Slixx made for us. Why?
1) They are thinner.
a) That means they look better
b) That also means they tear easier
2) You now have to cut out each individual decal
But don't get discouraged, this is your hobby, you are not on the clock, so who cares if it takes you a little longer.
My wife had (had) a great little pair of curved scissors (they disappeared a long time ago) These curved scissors are great for cutting out decals.
I use the container lid the car came in for water to dip the decals in. Dip them in the water and take them out. Do not allow them to sit in the water until you are ready to use them. Remember these are "waterslide" decals and if they slide off the paper into the water, your life has just become more difficult.
I find that my paint stand doubles as a graeat car holder while I apply the decals.
(there is a rumor that if you dip your decals in Coors, it will soften them and they will go on easier) NOT TRUE, I know you may be tempted, but put the beer away (even if you are doing Jr's car) until you finish this part of the process. When you are finished, set it in front of you and pop the top on that can and relax.
Easy? Can you do it? Sure you can, just take your time.
Some decals need to go over some areas on the body that have complex curves. How do you get the decals to lay down and conform to complicated body lines / curves?
You need to use a decal solvent / Setting solution.
There are a number of choices out there to choose from.
The main difference in them is the "Strenght"
1) Microsol (blue)
2) Microsol (red)
3) Walters Solvaset
4) Champion
I listed these in order of strength.
Since I found Walters and Champ, I never use Microsol, they are both to weak for my taste.
I use Walters Solvaset and for big curves I use Champ.
DANGER - DANGER
If you use a strong Solvent, do not try to move the decal after you apply the solvent - softening agent. You will tear - ruin the decal.
Make sure the decal is in place - where you want it before you brush the solvent on.
NEXT is the final Clearcoat.
Sign in a gas station: Coke -- 49 cents each. or Two for a dollar.
