I have one more RMS Galaxie to do and this time I am going about it a little differently. This model will be modeled after a actual car that raced in NASCAR. This means no wheel well wallering!
Of course I am taking scale detail liberties. I am using the Artin chassis to give me a car that will run with other models I have built. The main issue is the wheels of course, but once painted and at speed, it will look well enough. Again I did this to keep continuity in my oval cars and I can live with it.
I had to adjust the axle length of the stock Artin axles. I even had to remove the front chassis axle braces. I sanded them off with my Dremel and then just cut the axle to fit. You will also have to cut a small amount of each side of the rear axle to get the wheels to tuck inside the body. Just do this more or less by sight.
Next, we had to stretch the Artin chassis. First I just cut the chassis using my Dremel with the a cut off disc...This time I used a method where it would to make sure you had your chassis straight. I used Everegreen tubing cut exactly to 2 1/8 length. It braces against the cross braces in the chassis and along the front.
The neat thing is that this tubing not only helps to stretch the chassis, but this size will help block up the front axle and reduce unneeded vertical free play.
Then to help with chassis strength I used some sheet styrene to fil in the gap. I just cut this to fit by sight and beveled the edges as shown.
There are different versions of the car in question...some with side exhaust, some without depending on the track and time it was raced. I chose the side exhaust versions as it doubled as a great way to set the body ride height.
I cut the notches for this tube flush the bottom on the chassis. Then just made the notch slightly wider to allow the tub to be placed at an angle.
Now I had a straight and true chassis that was very strong. Yes, I know it does not look pretty, but it works. As I have always said, hot glue is one of your best friends in this hobby and such is the case here. All this was done with high temp hot glue.
Then I had to make some sort of mounts for the body. These are NOT for screw mounts. These are for where hot glue will hold the body. I used the same Plastruct that we use for filling the gap in Artin 4 lane track applications. The front just need one strip and then the rear was cut by sight. I lightly sanded it down after installing it to get it where the rear of the chassis just sits lightly on it.
In the end I have the rake and ride I was looking for. The body is no where near ready, just in prep stage now. More to come soon...
Of course I am taking scale detail liberties. I am using the Artin chassis to give me a car that will run with other models I have built. The main issue is the wheels of course, but once painted and at speed, it will look well enough. Again I did this to keep continuity in my oval cars and I can live with it.
I had to adjust the axle length of the stock Artin axles. I even had to remove the front chassis axle braces. I sanded them off with my Dremel and then just cut the axle to fit. You will also have to cut a small amount of each side of the rear axle to get the wheels to tuck inside the body. Just do this more or less by sight.
Next, we had to stretch the Artin chassis. First I just cut the chassis using my Dremel with the a cut off disc...This time I used a method where it would to make sure you had your chassis straight. I used Everegreen tubing cut exactly to 2 1/8 length. It braces against the cross braces in the chassis and along the front.
The neat thing is that this tubing not only helps to stretch the chassis, but this size will help block up the front axle and reduce unneeded vertical free play.
Then to help with chassis strength I used some sheet styrene to fil in the gap. I just cut this to fit by sight and beveled the edges as shown.
There are different versions of the car in question...some with side exhaust, some without depending on the track and time it was raced. I chose the side exhaust versions as it doubled as a great way to set the body ride height.
I cut the notches for this tube flush the bottom on the chassis. Then just made the notch slightly wider to allow the tub to be placed at an angle.
Now I had a straight and true chassis that was very strong. Yes, I know it does not look pretty, but it works. As I have always said, hot glue is one of your best friends in this hobby and such is the case here. All this was done with high temp hot glue.
Then I had to make some sort of mounts for the body. These are NOT for screw mounts. These are for where hot glue will hold the body. I used the same Plastruct that we use for filling the gap in Artin 4 lane track applications. The front just need one strip and then the rear was cut by sight. I lightly sanded it down after installing it to get it where the rear of the chassis just sits lightly on it.
In the end I have the rake and ride I was looking for. The body is no where near ready, just in prep stage now. More to come soon...
Harry
Slot Car Racing Is GOOD For you!
"They didn't say you COULDN'T"
