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Wow, over 5 years ago...where does the time go?

Great Lotus you have there...always liked that car. I agree as well, tune that baby up and run her!

Never had to glue in the motor sir. Light drop of oil on the pinion and crown...usual stuff.

The rear axle housing is held very tightly, so no need to glue them, at least I never saw the need?. No real bushings here to speak of. Just a housing.

Yes the tires need some attention. But with the active diff, it can be tricky when sanding. Make sure both tires are making contact with the paper.

But really, what we did was replace them with Indygrips. They were much improved over the stock rubber and at that time they were sandable.

Funny. When they were released...due to the scale detail issues, most scoffed at them and decided they were useless. I agree they will never win any awards for scale...but neither will 99 percent of my T-Jets or other 1/32 offerings for that matter. The fact is they were FUN to race and they did make them look pretty cool. Accurate? No way...fun? Yes way.

It would be great to see these cars re-done and done in a more traditional way. Increased scale accuracy, standard gearing, etc. The differential, although cool...stopped many because changing gear ratios and such was pretty much a non issue.

So 50's, I expect a full report after your first laps

In this particular case, there is very little room to raise the magnet as the motor shaft is in the way. I would suggest looking at the Scaley button magnet. Some of your "Sport" version cars came with a button magnet inside the parts bag to be placed up front. It is thinner and has much less down-force. So if you have a Sport model, check that bag and see if it came with the extra magnet.

If not, Gene at SCP has these thinner magnets in his online store: SCPM04 Traction Magnets (Neodymium) .375 x.0625 for 50 cents. But you can always check your local or favorite dealer and see what they have.