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Harry,
Method depends on how much banking that you want I suppose. The more banking you want, the more need for laying the MDF out for a squeeze increases. You can get by on mild banking with simple wedges but higher degrees of banking requires a squeeze. I like the squeeze method myself. It will give you most stable (structurally) curve and the transition into the curve is more natural. IMHO.

If you go to a furniture or appliance store, you can get a piece of corrugated cardboard large enough to make a 1/1 mock up of the turn you wish to create. Cut out the cardboard into a 1/1 "U" shape. Make a mark at say 3 ft from the center of the radius (thru the axis) on both legs of the U. Then squeeze the U at the ends to create a banking of the cardboard. Experiment with the banking by varying the squeeze until you get the bank that you want. Make a note of how much squeeze was necessary and the distance from the axis that you took that measurement to get the amount of banking that you want. Next, lay out the same curve on your MDF. Layout the legs with the amount of spred spread that you selected earlier. Use the same distance from center of the radius as you measured from on your cardboard. It is easiest to lay out the squeeze by making a center line through the axis running parallel the to legs of the finished U (after banking). Add 1/2 of the squeeze distance to each side of the center line. You will get a "V" with a rounded bottom. Pull the MDF legs together with a bar clamp to the same measurements that you noted earlier. You will wind up with a banked curve with two parallel legs. Fasten it to your frame work or table and you have a banked turn. You can go back and fill in with wedge pieces to add support. Harry, I'm sure I gave you more info than you were asking for but what the heck, I figured it might help someone else not as experienced as you who may read this.

If at all possible, I suggest routing your slots while the MDF is laying flat. It can be done after banking but the router tends to rock back and forth on the banking which means the operator has to be really on top of keeping the router square with the surface. Also, depending on the degree of banking, you may have to adjust for slot depth because the router base may not sit completely down on the compound radius banked curve. Here is a pic of my router on the banking during my current remodeling of Lost Coast Raceway. Following is a pic of the finished routing.
Mike A