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I shaved them just past the tread grooves pretty much instantly.
According to my dial indicator I removed 25 to 30 thousandths from total tire height.

We didn't notice them slow down. We Each ran the same car every time and when somebodies car broke they would get out a new car and we'd all say "oh that's a hot one". And as the laps turned every new car seemed even "hotter" then the last.

The track is kept super clean with 409 before every race, I've switched to the new braids that came with the set.
Track connection is awesome with 4 power taps and crimped rail contacts as shown in the how to section on this site.

The cars run smooth and make for tight racing with other cars of similar mileage, but they lack the top speed they had.

I got my parts from BRS in time for weekend racing. The Ninco Racing braid works great, it lies flat and eliminates 99% of the surging over the lane changers and pits. The ceramic magnets don't count laps in the stock position, I haven't got this worked out yet. The 9 tooth pinions were larger diameter then the regular digi-pro pinions, a little clearancing of the gear saver had it rolling smoothly in 5 minutes. The extra speed of the 9 tooth pinion with the reduced downforce of the ceramic magnet made for some very high speed Digi-Pro oval action. Radar gun shows a stock Digi-Pro setup going 250 scale mph while a 9 tooth ceramic magnet Digi-Pro car reach almost 400 scale mph with shaved tires.

I managed to get the SCW-1 green endbell 24k rpm motor soldered in place in about 20 minutes, this is my first soldering that wasn't to the bottom of HO track, and I was very happy everything held together through some spectacular crashes. The SCW-1 motor is a rocket, hitting over 500 scale mph in the scale 1/8th mile. This thing is pulling hard at the end with stock Digi-Pro gearing, it's probably good for much more speed. As a guide I ohmed a stock Artin at 14.7 and the SCW-1 at 4.7.(ohm taken at can power tags, not motor itself)

Pic shows my foam bumper DTM car on the left, it's typical of what we race. On the right is the SCW-1 motor in a Digi-Pro chassis with stocker rims/tires in the back.

I'll try shimming the ceramic traction magnets into a position they will count laps, if it doesn't leave me enough ground clearance I'll probably try some dot neo magnets above the ceramic ones to give them a boost on the passenger side (the track reed switch is in the passenger side rail of each lane)

I already switched the SCW-1 motor to the ceramic traction magnet so it would run with other cars without taking all the power. With the ceramic magnet it requires very little throttle(NO turbo) to zip past other cars. This makes it a complete handful to drive, the lightest throttle the Digi-Pro controller allows is enough to rocket off the track. If you don't have enough speed in a corner and have to gas it part way through it's very hard to give it a light enough tap to not deslot. This is especially problematic since the thing coasts for over 8 feet before it will think of taking an R1 corner. let off late and your doomed to deslot, let off early and you'll have to gas it and pray.

Once I pay off my new 1:1 car I'll probably buy a stockers set with R4 turns to take advantage of all the extra speed.

Learning to drive without traction mags is much easier said then done on Digi-Pro. The Digi-Pro controllers are made for the Neo traction magnets and weak motors so the lightest throttle you can apply is still way to much for magnet free cars. The huge digital chip in the car puts extra weight above the axle centerline making a roll over more likely then a slide. Maybe when I get R4 corners the Digi-Pro controllers will be better suited.

I came up with a foolproof plan to count laps, simply move the tracks reed switches to a bar running over the track. Then put the stock neo magnet on the underside of the cars roof where it won't effect downforce or be seen 99% of the time.