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hotrodbob51 |
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Our club runs a lot of classes with NINCO cars and we like them, but they are NINCO classes. We don't try and run them against Fly or Scally, etc. They may
not be the best handling cars around, but in Non-Magnet basically box stock (We can true wheels/tires/ add weight) they are fun.
Anyone can restore a classic car, but it takes a real Hotrodder to cut one up and make it cool!
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Tangmere222 |
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My experience (as is our club's) is the exact opposite - maybe the question should be in our case, is there a ninco thats not competitive? IMHO, out of the
box, they are amongst the best cars (especially the JGTCs) for non-mag racing. Sure they have their issues but overall the positives outweigh their negative(s)
and this is on any type of track.
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Pecos kid |
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He is running against other stock Ninco's, the only thing is the button magnet has been flush mounted, and weight can be added.
The other cars in that class turn in winning times of 7.645 to 8.793 His cars seem to have as much speed. just snaps though the turns. and with a 3 and out rule that's tough. Where he races, NO Magnet cars can stay on the track. (135 foot High Banked 4 lane Carrera @12 volts) |
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ElSecundo |
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Chaparral 2D wrote:Bob has a critical point here. When the magnet is in the forward position, a sliding car actually has more leverage to move the magnet away from its optimum position over the rails. If your driving style keeps the center of the car over the rails, you'll actually get as much grip (or more), and you can beat other supposedly faster cars. It might not be easy depending on the competition, but it can be done. Each car needs its own technique to go fast!
I'll tell ya...fellas......you're gonna want more cowbell!
Rock legend Bruce Dickinson |
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hotrodbob51 |
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Carrera track is tough to run on with only a front magnet. The track is slipery at best. Seems like it's not so much the car as it is the driving style. We
run no mag classes. One reason is we also found a large difference in the stock magnets right out of the box. There were guys buying up bunches of magnets and
only using the strongest ones, some were even greater the the spec.
Anyone can restore a classic car, but it takes a real Hotrodder to cut one up and make it cool!
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johnstoys |
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As a couple of others have mentioned, some of the Ninco JGTC cars run very well for me on Scaley Sport track. The Esso Supra and one of the NSXs comes to mind.
Scaley Sport can be like running on an ice rink, but a few easy tweaks, and some attention to the tires usually does the trick.
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TomSetzer |
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I have found the NINCO cars when set-up and tuned for the track I am running on(Carrera, Scaley Sport, or MDF) to be by far the fastest GT cars. My sons Yellow
Hat and Wood One Supras, and My Moslers have dominated the GT racing in our area for the last two years. You must drive the NINCOs smoothly to do well with
them, but when you get the driving style correct they can only be beaten by a well driven NSR, or a very well set up and driven Spirit Peugeot 406(Which is
really a copy of a NINCO).
--
Ragnar Tom Slot Car Realm - http://www.slotcarrealm.com/ First you have to finish, to finish first. |
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Chaparral 2D |
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HR-Bob also brings up a serious issue- you guys have a magnet marshal???
I posted this in SlotForum yesterday concerning the Slot.it standard magnets. I assume the NINCO ones may well be as varied. Quote: "Slot.it C-bar magnets vary on magnet marshalls from about 75 grams downforce in one case of a weak willie to one this weekend on a new car an IHSR racer just bought that went over 700 grams. I pulled out 10 slot.it mags out of various pods and cars and went through mine one season to find out which one was the best and also to find out if all the things I heard about magnets differential was true or baloney. Now here's the trick, folks. One does not need a Magnet marshall or expensive gauss meter to determine this kind of stuff. Anyone can do this test with a millimeter ruler and a hunk of steel. I used a slot.it axle as my test device. Put the magnet on the zero spot of the stick, and take the axle and slide it towards the mag along the ruler and stop when the magnet jumps to the axle. I ran through the test 3 times for every magnet and the results were consistent. I did this to make sure my method was accurate. Those 2 and a half years as a Physics Major before I went into Music Education did not go to waste LOL. The strongest magnet jumped at 10 mm. The weakest jumped at 4. Later on a magnet marshall we measured the 2 strongest, the one at 10mm, which measured about 240g, and the next strongest at 7-8mm, which went in at about 140-150. Needless to say, the strongest went in the box stock Slot.it Nissan and terrified everyone- until a friend came with a Sauber that had a mag later measured at 500+g downforce. But, I told everyone what I'd did, and why, to make a point. Finding the right mag was more important than any skill I might have when honking that ugly Nissan around. That's why we established a 250g limit with the stock slot.it class to keep the freak-of nature mags out. And yes- they are all the standard slot.it magnet out of the wrapper, installed in the pods, etc. Scalextric mags aren't quite as extreme but they also vary as well, even the same shape mag. We found the F1 Hondas were weaker by about 30g downforce IIRC when measured versus the newer Ferraris. That's significant." Unquote. I've not seen the NINCO buttons subjected to the same scrutiny, but I'd bet there's a variance. Maybe not the 6-700 percent swing we saw with the slot.its but hey- any advantage is an advantage, yes!? Oh, and another dirty trick I learned from a former HO National Champ (who now likes racing non-mag and beat me Saturday by 1/3 of a lap in one heck of a good race LOL!), and I found the strongest Slot.it mags also had this characteristic: Make sure the South side of the magnet is towards the track. Gets way more downforce. If the magnet is one-way like some of the scaley mags and the Slot.it C-bar, make sure the one you have does that. All you need is a compass. If the compass needle points its north end towards the magnet bottom, you're set. In all seriousness and I know this sounds funny and it kinda is, I have to wonder if racers South of the Equator, esp. in Oz., you'd want the mag to point North side down. I don't know the answer there, but I'd theorize that as likely. Bob |
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Robert Livingston |
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That is an interesting post about comparative testing of magnets. I don't race with neos (or any down force magnets), but I'll bet the motor magnets
vary as much, with a direct effect on torque. Thank you!
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Chaparral 2D |
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Robert,
It's a large part why I got away from magnets and why I try to get this information out when people set up racing leagues and classes. When we went to the Magnet Marshal this year in IHSR, it really helped a lot with our magnet class. With one round to go, the point speread in the top 4 is tight and would be tighter if one of the drivers who was tied for the points lead hadn't missed last race. They also used it at the SCX regionals and I'm sure it also helped a lot there. And some motors are also better than others, we all know that. Especially the standard Mabiuchis that Fly and Scaley use. Sometimes, someone gets a Slot.it motor that blows up for no apparent reason, I had a Black motor go south and I've seen a few guys post here and other places the new V12/3's have had this tendency. I'd also bet a few of those motors are a bit better because of the windings, mags or they were balanced and assembled with a bit more care. I'd say from what I've seen the NSR motors with the epoxy balancing might be the best of the lot in this area. I showed Dad, who used to build his own 40k screamers back in the '60's for his own cars my King Motor and asked what the stuff on the windings was and he explained, and said it was quality work. It's also a good quesrtion about the Motor magnets. My experience with this is pretty small, and we haven't done a large amount of testing with a MM, but I can tell you this about field leakage as measured by the MM by my best memory when we put a few cars on out of curiosity-- Normal closed can motors usually are negligeable. Slot.it V12/2, about 2-3g Slot.it V12/3, NSR Shark, about 7g NSR King, Slot.it Boxer 2 open can, about 11-13g. From what I've read, and from my experience, ride height rules above 1mm appear to greatly minimize this additional force on most routed tracks. The guys who are hardcore racers have said to get a real advantage out of this effect, you need to be racing on track with high metal rails like NINCO or SCX, and the ride height of the car needs to be under 1mm with the car practically touching the rails. I think that's why the Spanish leagues are really freaked out about this issue since most of them are racing on NINCO track. I think that was your Blue Ferrari I raced at Flying Cow in the RAA, Robert- nice car, very forgiving! Bob |
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