durability and interchange questions (update/pic added)

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sbctimh	durability and interchange questions (update/pic added)	Lead	[-]
Posts: 31 (04/24/08 01:43 PM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	Tags : None After a few thousand hard laps on my ~45 foot oval my Digi-Pro cars are noticeably slower then they started life. I have never even seen a 1/32 car that didn't come in a Digi-Pro box, so I have no idea if this is normal, or caused by to much magnet downforce. I did shave the tread off the rear tires. Is to much downforce killing my motors? How long do Artin motors usually run before dropping power? Will the ceramic magnets from other Artin cars fit the same spot as the Neo magnet the Digi cars come with? How tall are Stocker rims/tires? Is there an extra tall replacement tire for the DTM wheels? Is there a tall aftermarket tire/wheel combo for the Artin axle size? Last Edited By: sbctimh 05/04/08 03:42 PM. Edited 1 time.
plus77	Re: durability and interchange questions	#1	[-]
Posts: 408 (04/24/08 04:42 PM) Home Racing Guru! Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	When did you shave your tires, and how much did you shave off? I have seen cars, where the smaller tires, brought the magnet so close to the track that the car would not move! If the trouble started after you shaved the tires, then you know what the trouble is. Also make sure your braids are clean, as this is one of the moat common problems with the Digital cars! Art Love that spell checker!
sbctimh		#2	[-]
Posts: 32 (04/24/08 05:40 PM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	I shaved them just past the tread grooves pretty much instantly. According to my dial indicator I removed 25 to 30 thousandths from total tire height. We didn't notice them slow down. We Each ran the same car every time and when somebodies car broke they would get out a new car and we'd all say "oh that's a hot one". And as the laps turned every new car seemed even "hotter" then the last. The track is kept super clean with 409 before every race, I've switched to the new braids that came with the set. Track connection is awesome with 4 power taps and crimped rail contacts as shown in the how to section on this site. The cars run smooth and make for tight racing with other cars of similar mileage, but they lack the top speed they had.
Nor Cal Mike		#3	[-]
Posts: 385 (04/24/08 07:31 PM) Home Racing Guru! Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	The digipro cars are slower than than the analog cars due to those dang heavy magnets. I'd throw'em out the window except for the fact that they are required to trigger the reed switch under the track that counts laps. There is a mod mentioned an earlier thread about how to modify this magnet problem and still count laps but I can't personally vouch for its effectiveness. I was going to suggest cleaning the rails, but you said that you have done that with 409. I would question if the 409 might be leaving a film on the rails that acts as a partial insulator but you say that the problems have appeared with only certain cars. A film would effect all cars not selected ones so that theory goes out the window. I would next suggest checking your braids to see if they are clean and in good condition. As to which wheels other than Artin would fit, Ninco uses the same axle diameter as Artin so their wheels and tires are a good fit. If you change entire axle assemblies, including bushings, most other brands will fit with little or no modification other than shimming for gear lash. The key is in the outer bushing diameter. This diameter is pretty universal in all RTR cars except those that use spherical bushings such as Slot It. I have used Scaley, Carrera and Monogram axle assemblies in Artin chassis. Mike A Last Edited By: Nor Cal Mike 04/24/08 10:04 PM. Edited 1 times.
coznick		#4	[-]
Posts: 376 (04/25/08 04:17 PM) Home Racing Guru! Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	Make sure the axles are clear of hair and lint. They have a tendancy to pick up all sorts of trash that will slow your car for sure.
sbctimh		#5	[-]
Posts: 33 (04/28/08 11:37 AM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	I did some looking and there aren't a lot of tire/wheel options taller then DTM/Porshe cars come with I need to do something soon, my braids are clean, the track is clean, the cars are clean and oiled, everything runs smooth without surging I just ordered 100cm of ninco super comp braid, ceramic magnets, and 9 tooth pinions. Hopefully the traditional Artin downforce/gear setup counts laps right off the bat. If I have to lower the cars to get the ceramic magnets to count laps the 9 tooth pinions should get my top speed back. I also got a pair of stocker rims and tires to test just in case I can raise the back and still count laps. I have motors for now, but since I'm going to need new ones anyway, I got a 24k rpm SCW 1 motor to see how it likes digital racing. Last Edited By: sbctimh 04/28/08 10:24 PM. Edited 1 times.
sbctimh		#6	[-]
Posts: 42 (05/04/08 12:28 PM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	I got my parts from BRS in time for weekend racing. The Ninco Racing braid works great, it lies flat and eliminates 99% of the surging over the lane changers and pits. The ceramic magnets don't count laps in the stock position, I haven't got this worked out yet. The 9 tooth pinions were larger diameter then the regular digi-pro pinions, a little clearancing of the gear saver had it rolling smoothly in 5 minutes. The extra speed of the 9 tooth pinion with the reduced downforce of the ceramic magnet made for some very high speed Digi-Pro oval action. Radar gun shows a stock Digi-Pro setup going 250 scale mph while a 9 tooth ceramic magnet Digi-Pro car reach almost 400 scale mph with shaved tires. I managed to get the SCW-1 green endbell 24k rpm motor soldered in place in about 20 minutes, this is my first soldering that wasn't to the bottom of HO track, and I was very happy everything held together through some spectacular crashes. The SCW-1 motor is a rocket, hitting over 500 scale mph in the scale 1/8th mile. This thing is pulling hard at the end with stock Digi-Pro gearing, it's probably good for much more speed. As a guide I ohmed a stock Artin at 14.7 and the SCW-1 at 4.7.(ohm taken at can power tags, not motor itself) Pic shows my foam bumper DTM car on the left, it's typical of what we race. On the right is the SCW-1 motor in a Digi-Pro chassis with stocker rims/tires in the back. Last Edited By: sbctimh 05/04/08 12:31 PM. Edited 1 times.
BRS Hobbies		#7	[-]
Posts: 828 (05/04/08 03:51 PM) Home Racing Guru! Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	Cool update! You might try shimming the ceramic magnet so it is closer to the rail. This will increase the magnetic downforce. You can experiment with different thickness shims until the reed switch is being tripped for the lap counting. Not sure how many amps the Digi-Pro chip can handle so be careful when using the stock traction magnet and the SCW1 motor as the amp draw is most likely higher than the stock motor/traction magnet combination. The ceramic magnet shimmed lower should still be less downforce than the stock traction magnet so that should help reduce the amp draw. Best regards, Brian www.BRSHobbies.com - Free shipping offer! No backorders or delays!
sbctimh		#8	[-]
Posts: 44 (05/04/08 06:32 PM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	I'll try shimming the ceramic traction magnets into a position they will count laps, if it doesn't leave me enough ground clearance I'll probably try some dot neo magnets above the ceramic ones to give them a boost on the passenger side (the track reed switch is in the passenger side rail of each lane) I already switched the SCW-1 motor to the ceramic traction magnet so it would run with other cars without taking all the power. With the ceramic magnet it requires very little throttle(NO turbo) to zip past other cars. This makes it a complete handful to drive, the lightest throttle the Digi-Pro controller allows is enough to rocket off the track. If you don't have enough speed in a corner and have to gas it part way through it's very hard to give it a light enough tap to not deslot. This is especially problematic since the thing coasts for over 8 feet before it will think of taking an R1 corner. let off late and your doomed to deslot, let off early and you'll have to gas it and pray. Once I pay off my new 1:1 car I'll probably buy a stockers set with R4 turns to take advantage of all the extra speed.
ddyke		#9	[-]
Posts: 3203 (05/05/08 07:14 AM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	Is the counter in any way associated with the rest of the system? If not remove the magnets, learn to drive non-mag, and switch to a dead strip system and a computer with SRM2 software. People throw PCs and the old CRT monitors away left and right. I have 3 in my basement. My cars last longer non-mag and crashes are less violent. Scrappy Dan fere libenter homines id quod volunt credunt
sbctimh		#10	[-]
Posts: 45 (05/05/08 10:37 AM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	Learning to drive without traction mags is much easier said then done on Digi-Pro. The Digi-Pro controllers are made for the Neo traction magnets and weak motors so the lightest throttle you can apply is still way to much for magnet free cars. The huge digital chip in the car puts extra weight above the axle centerline making a roll over more likely then a slide. Maybe when I get R4 corners the Digi-Pro controllers will be better suited. I came up with a foolproof plan to count laps, simply move the tracks reed switches to a bar running over the track. Then put the stock neo magnet on the underside of the cars roof where it won't effect downforce or be seen 99% of the time.

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durability and interchange questions (update/pic added)

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