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slider2 |
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Depending on humidity levels, it can take a couple of days to dry even though it sets in a couple of houhs. I actually mixed it with dirt colored paint to cut
the stark white, about equal parts of sheet rock compound and about 20-25% Grey colored, latex based cement patching compound and some Elmer's glue. It
sets up pretty quickly ; like about 1/2 hour & dries pretty much overnight.
Greg
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Racer |
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I also used some cloth where I did not want to build up a lot of plaster.
I did skim coat the cloth w/ sculptamold. ..... I actually mixed it with dirt colored paint to cut the stark white, about equal parts of sheet rock compound and about 20-25% Grey colored, latex based cement patching compound and some Elmer's glue. It sets up pretty quickly ; like about 1/2 hour & dries pretty much overnight.and WOW! Greg... that is one hell of concoction... Also 2-1/2:1 or 3:1 will speed dry time and shorten working time.
Glenn
"Don't take life to seriously... you'll never get out alive." |
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slider2 |
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Yeah, I gotta get some pictures up one of these days. I've got about 50 or 60 on a flash drive, but haven't gotten around to jpeg'ing them yet. Too
many other things going on during the last couple of months.
Greg
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hotrodbob51 |
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That looks great..... Now I know how I wanna do my stuff..... Great way to do the scenary....
Anyone can restore a classic car, but it takes a real Hotrodder to cut one up and make it cool!
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RAC420 |
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guys Thank you for all the info I use Extruded Foam like that guy in the video I saw that before and planed on do my track like that but I had this big spot
that I couldn't reach so I had to extend my tools for working and painting good thing we have them grabbers to retrieve slot cars, that and a broom handle
with duc tape
I bought plaster cloth and plaster so I'll try to use that with the foam board I'll post my work photos (nice rainy weekend should my track???)
Death is
Certain…
Life is Not !!! What has a Man gained who wins the world, but loses his soul? |
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jas2060 |
Envious . . . | ||
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Envious, a couple of guys here are ahead of me.
Only add would do here, is that if you want edgier look to some surfaces. Good old cheap Plaster of Paris over wire, or newspaper, or pink board edges/slopes, or whatever, still works nicely. Plaster is based on gypsum, created by heating up gypsum. Though not recommended for modular, can be useful in other sorts of builds. Anyway, have also used wall & ceiling texture for scenery stuff. Most texture stuff comes pre-mixed nowadays. The mud that you put in the hopper is a watered down version of drywall compound. In my area, the average price for a 50 pound bag is about 7 to 10 bucks for 50 pounds. Yep, like to build, or finish stuff on the cheap. Why make some slot rides bought from Dollar Tree or Dollar General. People are lazy, so pre-mixed texture is what most stores sell these days. Used dry texture, and spray hopper to texture ceilings and walls of my house. If interested, you might have to do some "shopping" for the dry stuff. Plaster of Paris, of course, is usually available from most hobby shops. Anyway, for scenery, like the dry, since can make it sloppy, and literally "flow" in and around layout areas, when so desired, very easy to "wall" off on your layout. Then while still wet, plant my trees for real in the ground, or from the ground look, since wet compound seals "wound." Or, place my rocks, whatever, same healing bit. Or, use less water and make it moldable, for making scenes with relief and height to them. Being similar, can be used over wire, or newspaper, or pink board edges/slopes, or whatever, still works nicely. Almost forgot, to do wire, or newspaper sort of scenery, requires some wood pieces, glued, or screwed together. BTW, to close tree planting wounds in less sloppy compound, simply use eyedropper filled with water, lightly squeezing a little around the just planted tree base. Getting long winded as usual, time to stop. Anyhow, plaster, and texture of most any kind, even plastic based. Can easily be molded, spread, what have you by hand before it sets up. Plaster, and to a lesser extent texture, can be filed, or sanded after the fact, for whatever reason you may have. Have found this a handy feature. Plastic based texture is less friendly to mess with, however. Did this stuff when was in HO trains, both are an inexpensive, yet very user friendly means of getting some very realistic outcomes, right out of the box so-to-speak. Really, very, very easily done . . . Sorry if this is a bit disjointed, type extemporaneously and text becomes, well disjointed. Will be archiving this thread content for future use. Great info SJS, Racer, beautiful work both of you, very nicely done all round . . . Cheers, Jas "May the wind be at your back ... sails unfurled." Cheers,
Last Edited By: jas2060
05/11/08 07:32 AM.
Edited 1 times.
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Pecos kid |
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My scenery is Modulator so I can break the table down at anytime.
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jas2060 |
Pecos | ||
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Looks great, nice job, am a bit envious . . .
Cheers,
Last Edited By: jas2060
05/17/08 03:11 PM.
Edited 1 times.
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